Veggies & Fish

September 1, 2021

There's much to appreciate in the latest from Van Olphen (The Tinned Fish Cookbook) for readers seeking a score of ideas for fish-forward and vegetable-forward meals or practical advice on adopting a pescatarian diet. Van Olphen notably advocates for easy meals and preparation. First, he gives background on different fish (haddock, pollock, hake) and vegetables and fruits (avocado, beet), then shares what herbs and seasonings to have in the pantry to make his soups, salads, curries, and stews (most recipes are in the realm of Northeastern American cuisine). Van Olphen also offers advice on preparing and sourcing fish (primarily considering the kinds of fish readily available in North America); notably, he recommends buying frozen and canned fish, which he says is often more sustainable than fresh. Among the highlights of this cookbook are recipes for stuffed zucchini blossoms with saffron dressing and lentil salad with smoked wild salmon and arugula pesto. The beautiful photographs accompanying the recipes will whet the palate. VERDICT A master course for combining fish and vegetables, which makes it a great addition to many collections, especially given the increasing media attention on pescatarian and flexitarian diets.--Barbara Kundanis, Longmont P.L., CO

Copyright 2021 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

Starred review from September 20, 2021
In this delicious dive into eco-friendly cooking, Van Olphen (The Tinned Fish Cookbook), cofounder of the seafood brand Sea Tales, celebrates the culinary pairing of vegetables and fish with quick and tasty meals. He begins with an introduction to his favorite fruits and vegetables to pair with fish (including artichoke, cucumbers, and fennel), tips for “better seafood consumption” (opt for fish that’s plentiful and go for smaller portions), and a glimpse into his pantry, which is stocked with dried herbs, wine vinegar, and capers. While most recipes are for cooked dishes, there are appetizing raw options such as tuna tartare with frisée salad and mackerel poke bowls. Elsewhere, miso ramen gets a twist with vegetables and scallops, while spinach pancakes topped with cream cheese, avocado, and smoked salmon are decidedly daring but no less appealing. There are also scrumptious brunch, sandwich, and pasta options as well as grains, curries, and barbecue dishes that are sure to delight. Green pea guacamole rolls with pulled salmon; ravioli with leeks, ricotta, and wolfish; and roasted vegetables with whole sea bass are just a few of the stellar recipes Van Olphen showcases to inspire readers to “eat more fish... but focus on the vegetables.” Readers seeking to incorporate more fish into their diets—especially those concerned with sustainability—need look no farther than this exemplary work.